Traditional Polenta in the Paiolo

Even in a contemporary world, traditions are important.
And many home chefs conjure up memories of their heritage by preparing traditional dishes using long and time honoured methods. This holds true whether you are making a pie from scratch or a minestrone soup.

Today I bring you Carlo Middione's traditional polenta.

Poletna Sulla Tavola
8 cups water
2 teaspoons salt
2 cupts polenta (real Italian polenta, no substitutions! Try what we use "Farina di Granoturco Bramata")

Bring the water in the paiolo (an unlined copper pot) to a brisk boil and add the salt. In a fine but steady stream, drizzle in the dry polenta with one hand and stir with the other hand using a long wooden polenta spoon. Stir continuously in a clockwise motion, and lower the heat slightly if the water boils too high.

When the polenta is in the water, lower the heat to a gentle simmer and let your mind wander a bit! "Be sure you don't have anything important to do for 30 minutes," Carlo asserts. "Just stand there a stir the whole time!"

When stirring polenta, Carlo likes to daydream about his Sicilian heritage. He imagines his grandmother teaching him to stir in a clockwise motion to preserve the texture of the grain. He learns an important lesson: Lumpy polenta is impossible to fix!

The polenta is done when it pulls away from the sides of the pan. Be sure it is not undercooked or it will impart a bitter flavour. Dump the entire panful onto a clean unfinished wooden table or a smooth wooden board -- oak and birch are good candidates -- at least 18 inches square. You can let the polenta cool for later frying and making a crouton. Or you can add favourite toppings or ingredients used by your grandparents.

Carlo sometimes adds meat juices or tomatao sauces with grated cheeses and serves the polenta right from the wooden board. "In Abruzzi, the villagers gather around the board and eat the whole thing community style," Carlo says.

In Italy, everybody has a polenta recipe. Some families like to stir in grated mozzarella, fontina or parmesan while cooking polenta, cheeses that are a perfect compliment for robust meals like meat. In coastal areas, you often find plain polenta because it goes well with fish and lighter fare. Still other locations prefer a hearty polenta using milk or a broth of veal, chicken or beef.

With polenta, the options are virtually limitless and I will pass on a few more of Carlo's favourite polenta ideas.

In the meantime, be sure you have a sturdy polenta spoon. Carlo offers a hand carved, signature polenta spoon through vivande.com. You can also find wooden polenta spoons in many quality retail outlets. Carlo also reminds me to use only authentic Italian polenta and avoid common corn meal found in most markets.

Ciao,
Giorgio

Easy Polenta Recipe

Carlo gave me this recipe for Easy Polenta and I think you will see why it is one of my favourites.



CARLO'S EASY POLENTA
4 cups of water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper (to taste)
1 cup polenta (try Farina di Granoturco Bramata)

4 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

In the top part of your double boiler, bring four cups of water to a boil over direct heat. Meanwhile, fill the bottom boiler with water and bring to a simmer.

Use a whisk to swirl the top-boiler water. Pour the polenta slow and steady and continue to stir for about 5 or 6 minutes until the polenta begins to thicken.

When the polenta starts to thicken, put a lid on the top boiler and put it over the bottom part of the double boiler. The water in the bottom pan should be boiling.

Cook for about 90 minutes, stirring occasionally and tasting for doneness. The polenta is done when it is smooth, not grainy or bitter. Add salt, pepper, cheese and stir.

At this point, polenta is easy to hold. You can keep it on a very low flame for several hours this way. Serve it hot, or pour it on a sheet pan and cut it into shapes when it has cooled.

I like polenta both hot and cold. So when I prepare this dish I always have a hot portion on the day I make it and put the left overs in the refrigerator for easy side dishes the next few days.

If you decide to try the traditional Italian method of cooking polenta, you need a Polenta Spoon and be prepared for continuous stirring.